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Sunday, 5 July 2020

New York Fashion Week in 7 keys


The show, the collection, the most viral, the model, the 'front row', the beauty look ... A summary of the best of New York Fashion Week

Strong colors, volumes, and large ruffles, inspirations ranging from Dracula to Madame Grés, through great Spanish painters, and viral moments that include a dream choreography and a dress of epic proportions. Many things have happened at New York Fashion Week but these have been the 7 keys that sum it up perfectly.

The show: Marc Jacobs


Miley Cyrus, Jackie Kennedy, and a viral choreography were the ingredients of the last Marc Jacobs show. The American designer put the final cherry on NYFW with a show inspired by Jackie Kennedy and the 1960s and winked at Mrs. Robinson's character in the movie The Graduate (1967) with the catwalk look of Bella Hadid. The show, starring the choreography of the well-known dancer Karole Armitage (famous for Madonna's Vogue with Benny Ninja), also had the presence of Miley Cyrus as an exceptional model.

The Collection: Carolina Herrera


" My vision for fall is 'a big gesture.' When I was drawing or draping, I tried to identify the essence that made the piece special, and then I gave in to it. It could be the shape of a sleeve, an embroidery, or a color, but it is quite purified, " explained the designer Wes Gordon in the backstage of the parade of Carolina Herrera. “But the real starting point for that was Francisco de Zurbarán, the Spanish painter, and the undulating canvas when you look at it. There is only one element that creates a bloom. Color is my obsession, and it always has been, "she told Suzy Menkes. An NYFW collection of bold shades, babydoll dresses to the maxi silhouettes, and details of ruffles and sleeves with volume that becomes the true protagonists of the garments.

The Model: Bella Hadid


She opened and closed the Oscar de la Renta show in an impressive red feather dress, inaugurated Rodarte's dance of sweet vampires, and became Mrs. Robinson, the protagonist of El Graduado (1967), in Marc's viral proposal Jacobs. Khaite - another of the shows she opened -, Michael Kors, Brandon Maxwell, and Tom Ford (who walked in Los Angeles) are also among the many shows that the model has starred in New York Fashion Week. More than enough reasons to crown her as the most representative mannequin of this fashion week.

Inspiration: Dracula on Rodarte


“Kate and Laura Mulleavy chose one of New York's most iconic churches, dating back to the 19th century, to host the Fall / Winter 2020-212 Rodarte show, a gothic flair since before Bella Hadid walked in with the first look in front of the candles that lit the altar of San Bartolomé ”, explains the editor Celia Ellenberg in an article based on the beauty look. A perfect setting to reflect his inspiration: Mina Harker, the role played by Winona Ryder in the movie Dracula (1992) directed by Francis Ford Coppola. An adaptation of Bram Stoker's novel to which Area has also referred. emulating the leather outfits created by the famous costume designer Eiko Ishioka.

Most viral: Christopher John Rogers


Last year's CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund winner Christopher John Rogers unveiled New York Fashion Week's most viral collection - or, to put it another way, Instagram's most-posted look for a few hours - a stunning emerald green maxi dress worthy of a red carpet worn by model Nyaueth Riam. Citing Madame Grès as a reference, one of NYFW's recurring inspirations, as well as trash bags, the designer recovers eighties glamor with dresses in satin or iridescent fabrics, hypersaturated colors and sci-fi volumes. Love magazine, Susie Bubble, The Man Repeller, and The New York Times Fashion & Style are some of the accounts that echoed one of the most spectacular moments on the catwalk.

The 'beauty' look: Khaite

In addition to the smokey eyes or messy gaze that makeup artist Diane Kendal drew on the faces of the models - using the famous Embryolisse cream for this - and the wet bows, as "soaked in sweat", as Zoe Ruffner points out in Vogue. com, if anything stood out from the beautiful look of the Khaite show it was the models' spoiled manicure. A finish that Jin Soon Choi, in charge of it, described as "realistic" in the backstage. A neglected look (very "I just left the club", as Ruffner explains) as attractive as the collection.

The 'front row': Proenza Schouler

In addition to Leandra Medine, Emily Ratajkowski, Suki Waterhouse, Grace Coddington, Lauren Santo Domingo, and Lourdes Leon, the front row of the Proenza Schouler fashion show featured three legendary models: Carolyn Murphy, Karen Elson, and Liya Kebede. A renowned audience for a collection inspired by a character not as well known as the stylist of the firm Camilla Nickerson and her way of wearing the blanket that the designer duo gave her as a scarf. "She is covered in a protective layer of strength and confidence, " Hernandez said in the backstage.

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